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Even if we don’t believe in dragons and distrust Luna’s story, we all agree that Australia is one of the most challenging places on Earth to grow grapes. 

Vines can be planted almost only in the south of the continent. At the same time, we have to remember that vines and grapes are generally very resistant crops. They can grow everywhere, even in places where other crops fail. While the continent’s center is dominated by deserts and has a climate similar to the Sahara Desert in Africa, the northern part of the continent is more humid. It is still hot, but the humidity is similar to India. Have you ever heard of great wines coming out of India? We haven’t, at least. Only the southern tip of the Australian landmass has a more favorable climate similar to that of South Africa or Italy. So it does not come as a surprise that the best wineries in Australia are situated in South Australia, Victoria, and New South Wales.

The further we travel from the coast inland, the more the weather becomes hotter, and the need for irrigation intensifies. The first vines were planted not far away from Sidney and have lasted to this very day. New South Wales is world-renowned for the Hunter Valley and Mudgee wines.

The Hunter Valley has many advantages that work toward producing excellent wines. Like everywhere else in Australia, the climate here is moderate to warm. Being so close to the coast offers a much wanted cooling effect from the ocean and a moderate temperate climate. The Hunter River that runs through the plains contributes to the microclimate. Rivers help regulate average temperatures. The Hunter Valley is known for its Chardonnay and Semillon wines. Semillon is a white wine that can be aged for decades, although unusual for white wines.

If we venture from Sidney inland and pass the Blue Mountains, we reach Mudgee. A small community tucked away between hills. We are far from the coast, and the climate has changed to warm continental weather. Red grapes thrive in the burning sun, and some of the best Cabernet Sauvignons are produced here. The region’s success also lies with the Mudgee Mountains, which bring some cooling effect through cool winds running downhill. 

The state of Victoria is along with the Isle of Tasmania, Australia’s most southern tip. So we can quickly expect a much cooler climate. Some temperate environment is still to be identified, but the overall weather changes to a cool to moderate one. Around Melbourne, we can find the Mornington Peninsula and the Yarra Valley to the south. Both regions enjoy a cooler climate and are famous for Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. When we venture inland and reach Rutherglen, we find some delicious Shiraz.

South Australia emulates its neighbor Victoria and enjoys a cool to moderate climate. While the Clare and Barossa Valleys are close to the Hills of Adelaide and enjoy a cooler environment, Coonawarra, with its southern location, has a gentile moderate maritime climate, similar to Bordeaux, France. The cold air blows from the Antarctic and cools the coastline. At the same time, during summer, Coonawarra enjoys ample cloud cover that further helps moderate temperatures.

Even though we talk about cooler climates, we mustn’t forget that Australia is still a scorching place. “Cooler than very hot” is not that helpful at times. The landmass is bigger than Europe’s. Many local microclimates and events play a significant role in every type of agriculture. Because of that, and not despite that, we see many charismatic wines coming out of Australia. 

We usually enjoy planting Vines on hills, but most Australia is flat. Drought is a constant danger, same with bush fires. Bush fires don’t only threaten the vines directly but also with smoke taint. Even if some vines escape fires, the crops could be easily damaged. Most of the fires in Australia start at the end of the summer when the fruits are already grown. The dense fire smoke that comes in contact with the skin of the grapes taints them. As a result, you will get a very smoky, ashy wine. Charcoal is not the best way to describe a nice bottle of wine. In the case of droughts, the vines initially block perspiration to try to conserve water. But if the shortage continues, it becomes a matter of survival, and almost all photosynthesis will be stopped. As a result, you will most likely receive a weak and poor taste wine. This so-called “sugar blocking” can also be seen in other parts of the world. For example, the region of Bordeaux in France had 2003 one of the hottest summers ever recorded. As a result, the vines stopped producing sugars to survive. The resulting wines had lower alcohol concentrations, very few residual sugars, more green notes, and lacked the usual complexity. 

With all the harsh weather and life that Australian growers face, they should all be more often celebrated for the spectacular things they manage to achieve. We leave you with this one last thought: “Great wine is born not in the vineyard but in the brain.” Brian Walsh, former Chair Wine Australia 2014-2019.